A rose of thinly sliced yet toothsome salmon gravlax, surrounding a centre of crab salad ($10.95), sits atop a bed of mixed greens with a miserly amount of tangy grapefruit gastrique.

Roasted duck breast ($24.95) is a wee bit dry but arrives with a savoury take on bread pudding, featuring chunks of smoked bacon and wild mushroom. Again, the dish benefits from a touch of sweetness, in this case a dollop of brown chutney made from mission figs.

A grilled bavette of buffalo ($19.95) rewards the adventurous with a lean slab of the strong-flavoured, almost smoky meat. The accompanying frites are outstanding, not just crisp but somehow more flavourful than most. Truly special spuds must have been used. Desserts ($7.95) are lovingly created. Warm lemon cheesecake baked in crisp phyllo luxuriates in a puddle of punchy raspberry-mango coulis. White chocolate and Grand Marnier mousse cake seems lighter than air. The wine list is cleverly organized to help amateurs properly pair their selections with their food orders. Service is courteous on all fronts.